Fire and Ice: A Guide to a Long Weekend in Iceland in Winter

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Iceland in the winter is a bit of a gamble. You could end up with decent weather and the opportunity to see snow-covered Iceland in all its glory or you could end up stuck in Reykjavik with all your tours canceled, trying to figure out a plan B given the howling wind, hail, and relentless snow in constant rotation outside your window.

Still, people flock to Iceland during even the darkest, coldest winter months to see its glorious snow-dusted landscapes, marvel at frosty waterfalls and ice caves, and of course chase those elusive Northern Lights.

Is it worth it? I’d say yes.

When I came to Iceland for a long weekend in early February, I experienced both sides of the lady luck’s coin when it came to weather. I’ll give you the low down on some of my favorite activities to do in Iceland during the winter if you’re there for a few days, whether you get lucky with the weather or need a backup plan.

Best Winter Day Tours from Reykjavik

If you’re only in Iceland for a few days, I’d opt for staying in Reykjavik and taking day tours rather than trying to drive yourself around in potentially precarious weather conditions (if you’re in Iceland for longer, take a look at multi-day tours to highlights around the country).

Here are some popular full day and half day tours from Reykjavik:

Iceland Winter Day Tours from Reykjavik (Full Day)

1. Iceland South Coast Day Tour (with Glacier Hike)

I was a big fan of this tour. It hits the main highlights of the south coast of Iceland that are closest to Reykjavik, including two popular waterfalls, Seljalandsfoss (my favorite) and Skógafoss, as well as a black sand beach (Reynisfjara). I opted for the tour that included a hike on the Sólheimajökull glacier, which was absolutely incredible but pretty physically strenuous. Some tours include a stop at the fishing village of Vik or a visit to view the glacier rather than hike it. This tour will generally get you back in time to go on a Northern Lights tour.

    • 2. Snaefellsnes Peninsula

    Located in western Iceland, Snaefellsnes Peninsula is nicknamed “’Iceland in Miniature” given it has a little bit of everything when it comes to Iceland’s natural wonders: waterfalls, black sand beaches, glaciers, lava fields, mountains, and caves. It’s generally less well-known (and therefore less touristy and crowded) than some of the other tour options. It’s a longer tour, but you’ll likely get back just in time to catch a Northern Lights tour.

    3. Iceland Golden Circle Tour

    This is the most popular tour to do from Reykjavik and one of the closest to the city – you visit Gullfoss waterfall, Thingvellir National Park, the Geysir geothermal area, and on some tours, the Kerid Crater. My Golden Circle tour was canceled due to poor weather, but my impression from talking with others is that it’s the most touristy option, but people generally enjoy it. Tours often combine the Golden Circle with other experiences like horseback riding, geothermal lagoon visits, farm visits, and more. You can easily take this tour and get back in time to see the Northern lights.

    Thingvellir National Park in the wintertime, one of the stops on the Golden Circle tour.

    4. South Coast with Diamond Beach and Glacier Lagoon

    This tour includes the South Coast highlights mentioned above as well as a visit to Diamond Beach, a beach covered in giant, diamond-like icebergs, and the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon. It’s a long 14+ hour trip to and from Reykjavik and might not get you back in time to do a Northern Lights tour (although you might see them on the drive back if you get lucky).

    Iceland Winter Day Tours from Reykjavik (Half Day):

    1. Geothermal baths: There are many geothermal baths and spas around Iceland. The best-known is the Blue Lagoon, which is a quite cool experience but is pretty touristy and expensive (pro tip: if you go, don’t get your hair wet). The Sky Lagoon is another geothermal spa close to Reykjavik that is growing in popularity but isn’t quite as busy (or as blue). A few people I met recommended Hvammsvik Hot Springs, which I’ve put on my list for my next visit to Iceland. And you can visit public saunas and geothermal baths in Reykjavik like Sundhöll Reykjavíkur, which don’t have the views or fancy face masks but do have a great price point and are popular with locals.

    Hanging out in the Blue Lagoon, soaking in the geothermal waters and wearing one (of three) face masks.

    2. Whale watching: I ended up doing a whale watching tour after my Golden Circle tour got canceled. Although whale watching is generally best from April to October (in large part due to weather), I saw multiple humpback whales up close, the weather was relatively well-behaved, and I had a lot of fun.

    3. Northern Lights tours: Not really a day time activity, but an essential tour if you’re in Iceland in the dark winter months. The northern lights are elusive but are well worth the chase. Tours are in the evenings and generally last 3-5 hours. Make sure to layer up! You can read my guide on making the most of your Northern Lights tour here.

    A blurry photo of me wearing a thousand layers and being ridiculously excited about seeing the northern lights.

    4. Snorkeling between tectonic plates: I didn’t do this activity but you get to snorkel (or dive) between the North American and European tectonic plates at the Silfra fissure in Thingvellir National Park and it’s supposed to be quite cool, albeit a little pricey.

    5. Horseback riding: Another activity that is much more popular in the summer, but I ended doing this in the winter and it was a little chilly but enjoyable on a sunny day. You get to ride adorable Icelandic horses across moss-covered (or my case, snow-covered) lava fields. We even got to trot a little!

    Me riding my Icelandic horse and enjoying the snowy views in the very cold but sunny weather.

    A Note on Multi-Day Tours in Iceland

    You can also opt for multi-day tours where companies take you over multiple days around the Ring Road (the main road in Iceland circling the perimeter of the island) and you get to see many of the best-known nature sites, explore ice caves (in the winter), hike on glaciers, and more. These can be expensive and still run the risk of being canceled with bad weather, but are a great way to get out of the city and see some of Iceland’s highlights.

    Top Things To Do In Reykjavik (Especially When The Weather Isn’t On Your Side)

    Bad weather? No problem. Even with dicey weather and canceled tours, you can still enjoy your time in Iceland.

    When I arrived in Reykjavik after an overnight flight and discovered in the early morning hours that all my tours for the day were canceled, I was left scrambling, but you don’t have to be.

    Here are some fun things to do around Reykjavik, especially if the weather isn’t behaving itself:

    1. Check out some of the city’s main highlights: You can visit the Hallgrimskirkja Church, a funky stone building that is the largest church in Iceland and has excellent views of the city from its church tower. If the weather temporarily lets up, make sure to walk by Harpa Concert Hall, Rainbow Road, and the Sun Voyager sculpture.

    • 2. Visit the city’s museums: If your tour is canceled, the odds are the weather is less than stellar. If you’re looking for indoor activities, there are all types of museums in Reykjavik. Here are some of your options:

    • Perlan (Natural History Museum): With educational and hands-on exhibits on the nature of Iceland, this natural history museum features an indoor ice cave, a planetarium show on the northern lights, and an immersive volcano video. It also offers lovely 360 views of the city from its observation deck.
    • Aurora Reykjavik: Entire museum dedicated to the northern lights, including their mythology and science. Also features an interactive video and VR northern lights experience.
    • National Museum of Iceland (Þjóðminjasafn Íslands): An extensive national history museum with exhibits and thousands of objects highlighting Icelandic cultural history from settlement to present day. 
    • Other museums to consider: Reykjavik Art Museum (3 buildings), Whales of Iceland, Reykjavík Maritime Museum, Icelandic Phallological Museum, Icelandic Punk Museum

    3. Try some traditional food and drinks: Eating out in Iceland can be pricey, but I’d recommend at least sampling some unique Icelandic dishes like fermented shark and rye bread ice cream. I had rye bread ice cream at Cafe Loki and it was surprisingly delicious. If you don’t mind an expensive cocktail, I highly recommend grabbing drinks at Kol (get the Grandhatten). You can also do the food tour with Wake Up Reykjavik, which I’ve heard is excellent and will likely go on regardless of weather.

    4. Eat some delicious pastries: There are some fantastic bakeries in Reykjavik. If the weather is acting up, I would highly recommend stopping by for a pastry and hot beverage. My favorite bakery is Brauð & Co, where I had the best cinnamon roll of my life (ask for a warm one). If you want to turn your visit into an unofficial bakery tour, I’d recommend checking out DEIG, Brikk, and Sandholt as well.

    First bite of the best cinnamon roll of my life from Brauð & Co in Reykjavik.

    5. Go shopping: I didn’t do much shopping in Reykjavik, but there are plenty of cute stores around downtown from Laugavegur (the main shopping street) to Rainbow Street.

    6. Embrace your inner tourist: I know, I know. But there are some kitschy touristy activities that you might consider checking out if the weather is bad. These include:

    • FlyOver Iceland: Indoor flying ride that takes you roller coaster style through a digital tour of some of the most impressive landscapes in Iceland. I actually thought the 20-minute ride was fun, but the two short digital experiences prior weren’t great (a fireside welcome with an Icelandic man and a short video on Icelandic history and the northern lights). Tickets are pricey (but most activities are in Iceland).
    • Lava Show: Immersive lava experience that heats up lava to 1100°C (2000°F) and recreates a volcanic eruption indoors while providing an educational overview of this natural phenomena. It’s also pricey and lasts about an hour.

    7. Relax at local geothermal baths and spas: Although you can try to enjoy the outdoor geothermal baths like Blue Lagoon and Sky Lagoon during bad winter weather (they rarely close), you can also check out some of the local pools and saunas with both indoor and outdoor options (and excellent price points) like Sundhöll Reykjavíkur.

    Iceland in the Winter FAQs

    What should I do if the weather forecast looks bad while I’m in Iceland?

    The weather changes constantly during the winter in Iceland – you can go from a near blizzard to fairly clear skies in a matter of minutes, so don’t despair if the weather forecast doesn’t look promising on the days you’re visiting. I saw the northern lights on a day when there were on-and-off snow flurries. 

    Should I rent a car in the winter?

    After seeing a number of tourists stuck in snow drifts or terrifyingly braving the near whiteout snow conditions on the roads, I’d recommend that you don’t rent a car in the winter in Iceland. Although tours give you less flexibility and aren’t cheap, tour guides can navigate difficult weather conditions and make sure you get to see the sights safely.

    How can I visit Iceland if I’m on a budget?

    I won’t sugarcoat it – Iceland is expensive. However, there are ways to save some money and still enjoy your time. Here are a few tips:

    • Food: I saved money on food by buying pre-made sandwiches from gas stations and convenience stores, which are surprisingly good, high quality, and inexpensive. The hot dogs in Iceland are also relatively inexpensive and decently good. I’d recommend trying Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur, a famous hot dog stand in the center of Reykjavik.
    • Lodging: Stay in a hostel. I stayed in Loft – HI Eco Hostel & Bar right in the center of town, which was less expensive than a hotel. They also had a kitchen for cooking your own food.
    • Transportation: In Reykjavik, I took buses or walked places whenever I could, rather than take very expensive taxis. You can easily take a bus from the airport to Reykjavik (and back).
    • Flights: Keep an eye out for inexpensive flight deals through Icelandair, especially for trips in the winter months. I recommend signing up for Going.com, a flight deals website that occasionally sends great Iceland deals.

    Still, it’s hard to avoid the high cost of tours (perhaps if you rent a car, but I wouldn’t recommend this in the winter).

    What should I pack for a visit to Iceland in the winter?

    Layers, layers, layers. Iceland can be cold, windy, snowy, rainy, and hail-y (all in one day and sometimes in one hour). I’ve never experienced wind like what I encountered in Iceland. I wore ski pants, thick winter socks, a warm hat, ski gloves, and my warmest winter coat. I also wore multiple layers, including 2-3 thermal layers of shirts and pants. Glove warmers were relatively inexpensive and a game changer for my fingers and toes.

    Like many things in life, sometimes risks can reap big rewards. If you head to Iceland in the winter time, you might end up spending your time largely indoors visiting museums and eating delicious pastries. I mentally prepared for this scenario. However, if you get a little lucky and stay flexible with your plans, you might just have a magical winter adventure.

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