La Tierra Bonita: The Ultimate Travel Guide to Colombia
No matter what you’re looking for from your vacation, you’ll almost certainly find it in Colombia.
In this Latin American country with a storied past, you can find dense jungles, rocky mountains, and white sand beaches. You can dance your heart out to salsa or reggaeton, delve into the country’s vibrant art, culture, and history, and sip steaming cafecitos in the rolling green hills of coffee plantations.
Colombia is also a great place to solo travel given its warm hospitality, affordable cost, and steady stream of foreign travelers from all over the world.
A note on safety: I didn’t find Colombia to be an unsafe place to visit, but I do recommend traveling smart and being vigilant in this country, especially if you’re solo traveling. I’ll cover the topic of safety throughout this post.
If you’re planning a trip to Colombia and aren’t quite sure where to start, here’s my guide to some of the most popular places to visit in this beautiful country.
Bogotá
To be honest, I found Bogotá to be a pretty standard, large Latin American capital city with a cute colonial historic center, a quite good culinary scene, and some shopping, parks, and museums. I’d recommend starting or ending your trip here since it’s likely the cheapest place to fly out of. Based on my experience, I don’t think you need to spend more than a couple of days here.
Located within the Andean mountains, Bogotá has an altitude of over 8,000 ft (2,400 m), so make sure to take it easy and drink lots of water your first day or so. Also, some of the neighborhoods (zonas) can be dangerous for tourists, so make sure to stay in the safer areas of town and remain vigilant anywhere in the city (keep your belongings close and don’t walk around alone at night).
Top things to do in Bogotá
1. See sweeping city views from Mount Monserrate: Located near the city’s historic center, this towering mountain has expansive views over the entirety of Bogotá. Along with a church at the top, there are places to purchase food and souvenirs. You can hike up for free (2 mi / 3 km), take a cable car (not free), or take the funicular (not free). Sundays tend to be more crowded due to church services and lower prices for the rail and cable car.
2. Wander through Barrio La Candelaria: This neighborhood is the historic center of Bogotá. Easily walkable, I’d recommend you take a stroll around to admire the colorful colonial buildings and street murals, check out the center plaza (Plaza Simon Bolivar), grab a coffee and snack at a cafe, and visit the Museo Botero or Museo de Oro.
3. Visit the charming Museo Botero: This lovely free museum in Candelaria is located in a massive colonial house and features the art and private art collection of the famous Colombian artist, Fernando Botero.
4. Marvel at gold artifacts at the Museo de Oro: An archeological museum also located in the Candelaria neighborhood with tens of thousands of pre-Columbian artifacts made of gold and other metals. The entry fee is very reasonable.
Where to stay in Bogotá
I stayed in the neighborhood of El Chicó when I was in Bogotá, which has some decent shopping and restaurants and felt very safe. Other safe and popular neighborhoods for tourists located nearby include Zona Rosa, Chapinero, and Usaquén. These are all a 20-30 minute drive north (without much traffic) from Bogotá’s historic center, Barrio La Candelaria.
You can also opt to stay in La Candelaria to be closer to the cultural and historical sights in the city (this is where most hostels are located), but the area can get a little dicey after dark. Keep valuables you carry to a minimum and don’t walk around on your own at night.
Where to eat in Bogotá
Bogotá has a burgeoning culinary scene with many restaurants to choose from:
- I loved Cafe Bar Universal, which has excellent international dishes and a great ambiance.
- If you’re craving Italian, give Cacio & Pepe or Storia D’Amore a try.
- For traditional Colombian fare, head to Restaurante Dona Elvira.
- Andres Carne de Res offers a decidedly unique dining experience with a meat-centric menu served in a nightclub atmosphere. It is located up north quite a ways from the historic center of the city.
- If you’re looking for something quick and easy that won’t break the bank, try Crepes & Waffles. This chain is all over Bogotá and offers both sweet and savory (you guessed it) crepes and waffles.
- Conversely, if upscale (and pricey) tasting menus are your thing, aim to get a reservation at Leo or El Chato.
Medellín
Medellín is a striking sight to behold with its sprawling cityscape surrounded by rolling green mountains. Known as the city of eternal spring given its temperate climate, it’s the second largest city in Colombia and was once the violent epicenter of the country’s drug trade from the 70’s to 90’s. Medellín has transformed into an innovative, vibrant, and much safer city that is popular with digital nomads and travelers alike.
Like in Bogotá, there are neighborhoods in Medellín that are not safe for tourists. I’d make sure to avoid walking around on your own in most places (especially at night), stay vigilant (and be smart when enjoying the nightlife), and keep an eye on your personal belongings (I knew multiple people who had their phones stolen when I was here).
Top things to do in Medellín
1. Go see the stunning street art in Comuna 13: I highly recommend taking a guided tour of Comuna 13, a neighborhood (comuna) that used to be very dangerous but is now known for its incredible street art and artistic community.
2. Immerse yourself in Colombian art at the Museo de Antioquia: I enjoyed my visit to the Museo de Antioquia. This three story museum has a whole floor dedicated to Fernando Botero, the famous Colombian artist.
3. Ride the metrocable and visit Arví Park: See stunning city views of Medellín’s neighborhoods (comunas) on the local cable cars, which also serve as public transit for the city. One of the most popular routes is taking Lines K & L to visit Arví Park, a large ecological nature reserve.
4. Spend the day in glorious Guatapé: I enjoyed my visit to Guatapé, an adorable, colorful, and slightly touristy Colombia town a couple hours away from Medellín. You can take a day trip here with a tour company or take a bus and spend a night there. If you go on your own, make sure to visit El Peñón de Guatapé (the Rock of Guatapé), located a couple kilometers away from town with over 700 steps leading to breathtaking views of the surrounding area.
5. Enjoy the nightlife: Medellín is well-known for its vibrant nightlife. There are lots of places to go out in El Poblado and Parque Lleras with music ranging from reggaeton, to salsa, to EDM, to U.S. pop hits. Make sure to stay vigilant and go out with a group – I found Medellín, especially at night, can be a little rough around the edges.
Where to stay in Medellín
I’d recommend staying in the neighborhood of El Poblado, which felt very safe and had lots of restaurants, cafes, and bars. I stayed in Los Patios Hostel, a favorite of digital nomads and solo travelers with lots of activities and great amenities. I also heard good things about Masaya Hostel.
Where to eat in Medellín
There are a number of good restaurants in Medellín, but a few that I liked in El Poblado include: Mamasita Medallo (traditional dishes), Olivia Manila (Italian, giant glasses of wine and great pasta), and Hija Mia (excellent brunch).
I’d also highly recommend heading to a rooftop bar like Mosquito Rooftop, La Deriva, or The Rooftop at Marquee to see stunning views of Medellín in both the daytime and nighttime.
Cartagena
Located along Colombia’s Caribbean coast, this charming city has a colorful, colonial old town with high walls built in the 16th century, an interesting history, and laidback, tropical vibes. Whether you want to explore the city’s colonial-era buildings and street art, head by boat to nearby islands with white sand beaches, or enjoy a sunset drink with ocean views, there’s something here for everyone.
I felt quite safe in Cartagena’s walled city (old town), but like other places in Colombia, it’s important to keep an eye on your belongings, stay vigilant (especially in less busy areas and more dangerous neighborhoods), and don’t wander around alone at night.
Top things to do in Cartagena
1. Go on a walking tour of the walled city: A walking tour is a great way to get to know the history and culture of Cartagena’s walled city. After getting your bearings with a tour, I’d recommend exploring the old town on your own afterward – it’s charming and full of restaurants, cafes, and shops.
2. Admire the street art in the Getsemani neighborhood: This artsy, hipster neighborhood is known for its incredible street art as well as its cute shops, restaurants, and cafes. It’s located right next to the walled city.
3. Admire city views from the San Felipe de Barajas Castle: This large fortress was built by the Spanish starting in the 16th century to defend the city against pirates and other invaders. For a small fee, you can walk around and explore the old fort, which has excellent views of the city.
Get some beach time in: If you’re set on heading to white sand beaches, you can take an hour-long boat ride to the stunning beaches on the Rosario Islands (with great snorkeling) or take an hour-long taxi (or ferry) to Playa Blanca in Baru. For beaches closer to the city, check out Playa Bocagrande and Playa Castillogrande, which have Miami-like vibes. All of these beaches can get crowded and you’ll encounter a lot of vendors.
Where to stay in Cartagena
I’d recommend staying in the city’s old town (Centro or San Diego areas) as you’ll be close to most of the historic sights and there are plenty of restaurants, shops, nightlife, and cafes. The Getsemani neighborhood is another increasingly popular choice, especially for backpackers. If you’re set on staying next to the beach, I’d recommend accommodations in Bocagrande or Castillogrande.
Where to eat in Cartagena
- Some recommendations for great restaurants that won’t break the bank: La Mulata, La Cevecheria, Caffé Lunático, and La Cocina de Pepina.
- For breakfast, check out Época Café Bar, Ely Café Bocagrande, and La Brioche.
- I really enjoyed the Peruvian food at Cuzco Cocina Peruana, although it’s on the pricier side. Other more upscale restaurants in the city include: Carmen, Candé, Celele, and Alma.
- Head to Cafe del Mar at sunset for overpriced drinks that come with amazing views. If you’re looking for awesome cocktails, also check out these bars: Alquímico and El Barón.
Five Other Incredible Places to Visit in Colombia
1. Santa Marta: Located along Colombia’s Caribbean coast, Santa Marta is known as the gateway city to Tayrona National Park and the Lost City Trek.
- Tayrona National Park: This stunning national park has dreamy beaches and rainforests. During my time there, I hiked along the coast for a couple hours and spent the night at a lodge in the middle of the jungle (you can stay in a hammock or a little cabin). There are plenty of adventures to be had with hiking, snorkeling, and beaches to explore. Make sure to bring lots of bug repellent and get your yellow fever shot before you go.
- The Lost City Trek: The Lost City Trek is a multi-day trek through jungles, rivers, and valleys across the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta to get to the ruins of the lost city of Teyuna. I didn’t do it but I heard great things – it’s definitely an off the beaten path adventure.
2. Minca: An increasingly popular place for backpackers to visit, this small town up in the Sierra Nevada mountains is known for its lovely nature, coffee plantations, and laid back vibes. It’s about a half hour from Santa Marta. Make sure to bring bug repellent.
3. Salento: I also didn’t make it to Salento, but it’s a popular coffee town in the Andean mountains. Rumor has it that this colorful town inspired the town in the Disney movie Encanto. The nearby hike through the Cocora Valley is supposed to be incredible.
4. Palomino: Palomino is a little hippie beach town on Colombia’s northern Caribbean Coast. I didn’t make it here but heard it’s a laidback and fun place to chill out and enjoy the beach.
5. Jardín: I did go to Jardín, which is a 4-5 hour bus ride from Medellín. It’s a cute little coffee town and is a little less touristy than Salento. You can visit nearby coffee plantations, hike to waterfalls and overlooks, go paragliding, and sip a beer in the charming plaza in the center of this quiet town. Be sure to make a reservation and eat at Revolución Bananera, a restaurant that’s a short mototaxi ride outside the town.
Colombia is a magical country with incredible nature, friendly locals, and plenty to do whether you’re looking for history, culture, or nightlife. I loved my time exploring this vibrant country and know you will as well.
